So you just got your new Daytime Running Lights from Agency Power and now you need to install them on your Porsche 997 Turbo.  Here are the steps to follow that will make your installation go smoothly.  Click any image to view the full size.

Note: These DRL LED lights were designed and tested to work with the Porsche 997 Turbo 07-12 as a direct replacement of the stock lights.  Installing these on anything else or using any other lights in conjunction with these is at your own discretion and can void the warranty offered.  We do recommend an experienced installer to complete the upgrade.  For any questions in regards to installation, please contact porsche@vividracing.com.

Recommended Tools & Supplies: Torx Bits, Phillips and Flat Head Screwdriver, Wire Strippers/Crimpers, Wire Coat Hanger, Electrical Tape, Zip Ties, 20-22 Gauge Butt Connectors, Female 20-22 Gauge Disconnect Connector, Tap Splice Connector 20-22 Gauge.

Step 1 – Remove both front wheels from the car so you can access the inner fender liners.

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Step 2 – Using a flat head screwdriver, pop out the push clips to remove the front wheel fender liner.

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Step 3 – Remove the side marker lights.  The easiest way is to push towards the front of the car and pull out away from the car as they have a spring clip.  Once out, then you can disconnect the light plug.

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Step 4 – This is why you have to remove the factory bumper to install these.  The Porsche harness which is connected also to the fog lights, head light washers, and front lights is all located here and not reachable from the front.  Unplug as pictured in preparation to remove the bumper.

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Step 5 – Same as Step 4 but this is the Drivers Side.

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Step 6 – Remove the screw that goes vertically connecting the bumper and the fender.

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Step 7 – This is a big step.  Here you will actually be removing the front bumper after you get all the clips and screws removed.  Not pictured, but on the bottom of the bumper there are push clips that hold the bumper to the under pan which need to be removed as well.

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Step 8 – The LED DRL is supplied with a standard halogen drive light bulb and plug in.  There are 2 black wires from the black box and 2 wires from the halogen connector.  Those 2 need to be connected and color does not matter.  Here you can use 2 butt connectors per side, solder with rubber shrink wrap, or use electrical tape.  Whatever your preference is.

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Step 9 – With those wires connected, take the red rubber o-rings and place them in the connector and twist them shut.  Then your complete light unit is ready to be installed.

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Step 10 – You will be removing the factory front light and then feed the new LED DRL back through and resecure them like stock.

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Step 11 – With the light fed through and mounted back in place, its time to secure the wires and clips in place on the back of the bumper.

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Step 12 – With the lights mounted and plugged in on the bumper, it is now time to run the blue ignition power wire.  This makes it so when the car is on, it is a true daytime running light.  Each light module has a blue wire.  So what we suggest is running the passenger side over to the driver side and then use a Tap Splice Connector to connect the 2 blue wires so you only have 1 running into the cabin.  You can cut the wire to length and then tuck and secure it on the inside of the bumper.  If you do not think you have enough wire to route it into the cabin via the firewall grommet, you can easily add more of the same gauge wire and connect them via a butt connetor or solder with heat shrink wrap.  We did this with red wire as you will see in further install photos.

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Step 13 – With everything set on the bumper, it is now time to access the firewall grommet to run the ignition power wire to the fuse box.  To access this area, you will need to remove the plastic trim covers.

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Step 14 – Once you get to the grommet, an easy way to push the wire through is to take a wire hanger and un-twist it.  Using one end like your cooking marshmellows, take the wire to the end and gently push it thru or on the side of the grommet.  With someone on the inside of the car, once it is visible, un-tape the end and pull the wire into the cabin and pull the hanger out from the bonnet side.

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Step 15 – This is the final step to get the lights to turn on with ignition power.   With the wire pushed through the firewall, open up your fuse box and as pictured, remove the 10amp fuse next to the 7.5amp on the second row.  Cut your ignition power on wire you pushed thru the firewall if you have extra length or use extra wire to run from the 7.5amp fuse to a disconnect connector.  Then add another disconnect connector to the end of your ignition power on wire.  Connect the circuit by attaching the 10amp fuse to the 2 disconnect connectors as pictured.  Using your wire strippers, strip the end of the wire that goes to the fuse panel and push it in place with the 7.5amp fuse.

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Final Note – There are many ways to connect to a ignition power on supply.  This was the method that we choose to use.  If you do not want the lights to be on all the time, then do not connect this power wire.  Everything we have done is the result of our testing and installation during this 1.5 year product development.  We encourage you to share your ideas on installation as well.  Before you reinstall the bumper and all trim, test your lights out.  Put the key, turn it to power on, do the lights come on?  Try your hazards, parking light, left signal, right signal, start the car.  If all is ok and no issues, secure your bumper properly.